Detail and definition (1.6)

Some of the earlier works have already looked at detail, but for this section I decided to use 3 colours of sharpie pens and five pieces of square printmaking paper that I had torn for another project, to create a small series of simple drawings of detail from my textile pieces. I have tried to utilise the tendency of the Sharpie to spread and run into the soft paper to create a (somewhat limited) variety of marks. 

Collage and creases (1.5)

First collage is made from a piece of hand painted paper in my attempt at indigo colour. It was then cut into small kimono shaped pieces. The original plan was to tessellate but that didn’t work well so I moved on to using one edge of the shape to define the line of the whole kimono. I struggled to keep the small shapes glued down so I had to resort to cover the lot with a piece of non woven textile I had with me. It’s red which has nothing directly to do with the kimono, but it was what I had with me and it’s sort of a Japanese colour. It serves to soften the line of the kimono underneath and unify the collage a bit. 

All collages are made from hand painted paper because I’m travelling and didn’t bring a big range of coloured papers. In this collage I have painted a piece of paper leaving one area white, and then torn it into strips and woven it together in a crude representation of the ikat weave of the kimono. More time and thinner strips would have worked better, and I also should have had some strips completely painted to achieve the shape of the weave properly. 

Looking inside the sake bag and seeing the light through the holes was the idea behind this collage. I have painted a light background on shiny paper and then cut holes through another piece of folded paper to emulate the symmetry of the holes found in the bag. I would have like the background glossy paper to shine through the holes more brightly and in retrospect it would have been better to make the contrast between the background and the foreground paper even higher to highlight the holes. I’m guessing that these are things that could be reworked down the track prior to assessment, but at this stage I am battling to get the work done before my first submission. Seems that I don’t have as much time while travelling as I had hoped. Still I am enjoying the work.

A partially shredded piece of paper from a perfume shop in Melbourne forms the background for the final collage. Hand painted and torn patches are applied to the top, in a crude representation of the boro futon cover. I have allowed the patch edges to lift and be rough, as the patches on the futon cover. 

Lines and Edges (1.4)

Here I have started with a simple silhouette drawing of the three textile items. I have drawn them to each fit the page rather than show relative sizes, although I could have added extra information if I had approached it that way.


Next I have manipulated a photo to show the weave and patterning on the kimono in black and white suitable for line drawing.


The resultant drawing is created with broken lines of watercolour. The variation in density of the watercolour and the curves of the lines add an extra dimension of depth to the drawing and I think this is my most successful “weave” drawing to date.


I then attempted to draw the bag in a single line. Not a continuous line doubling back on itself but truly just one line. I loaded the paper with ink and then did one scrape with the credit card edge. Within in this line you can see texture and variation of tone creating secondary lines within the contour of the line itself. It’s not clear in the photo but the line also has physical dimension where the drop has build up and set at the bottom of the page.


For the next drawing I’ve taken inspiration from Debbie Smyth’s shaded thread drawings to create a silhouette edge from scribbled line with the intention of illustrating the frayed edge of the futon cover. To show the less frayed edges of the patches I’ve used an irregular but single line. This drawing is done with Indian ink and a 0.8 mm technical pen. I discovered I can create thicker and thinner lines with this relatively wide bore technical pen by moving slowly and heavily or quickly and with a lighter touch.


While this next drawing is all lines I have kept them short and used only line to draw the pattern but arranged the pattern in the geometric shape of the kimono. I have used this to highlight the simple shapes used to construct a kimono.


I was finding the sake bag a bit of a boring image, so I decided to look inside and draw the curves and light through holes that is created inside the open bag.

APC_1344This is the photo I worked from, and I also used an inverted version to highlight the lines of light coming through the holes in the bag.



Looking at the course outline in the middle of the night on the ferry, I decided to do my drawings with my eyes closed. It was pitch black so I couldn’t cheat and didn’t look at my drawings until the sun came up the next day. I was surprised by how little detail I could actually remember despite spending lots of time studying my textiles, but I was not unhappy with the spontaneous look of the drawings.


And finally for this exercise, I had to do a continuous line drawing. I drew every linear aspect I could see and I found to my surprise that if I drew the linear folds in the fabric it suggests form and drape.


I feel like I’ve only just scratched the surface of drawing line but I have to keep moving as I have got behind, with all the responsibilities of setting everything up before leaving for our trip. Now the trip is underway I’m hoping that there will be more time for art.

Making Marks (1.3)


Here I am trying to capture the drape and movement of the little kimono with loose line, repeated inexactly. Not unhappy with this but will also try on a larger scale with wet media like watercolour. Wondering if a bit of vertical dripping will emphasise the upright nature of a kimono.kimonodrape.jpg

As I had my ipad with me and inspired by a blog post from another student, I decided to try a quick digital image of the kimono too.



Next I have tried using wet liquid pencil. Not as successful at suggesting the movement related to the drape of the fabric. Outline now a bit heavy and the liquid pencil didn’t run to emphasise the fall of the fabric.



Finally another go with watercolour. This time I have stretched out the length and allowed the watercolour to flow to the bottom points to emphasis them. This is subtle but I think more successful.



Looking at the close detail of the ikat weave, I have done a drawing based on weaving. The watercolour lines are drawn back and forth with breaks in the line where the resist has meant the thread is not dyed. I have bent the weave lines slightly as they are in the source image hoping this would show the underlying flexibility of the cloth, but I don’t consider this has worked. The image looks too rigid and hard compared to the softness of cotton cloth.




Tried again with a bingo marker, thinking that it will give a softer mark, more in keeping with the fabric weave, but it isn’t right. All the negative space behind is actually shadow and should be dark.



Zooming in even closer, I’ve now started by inking in shadow and then filling the weave in with watercolour. I like this much better but it’s just a little tester size thing. An interesting byproduct is that the weave that got wet by watercolour has bubbled a bit and added to the textural effect. It looks more like a stone wall though than close up weave. That’s because of the granular separation of the watercolour, which I like, but which doesn’t say softness or fuzziness.



I’ve looked ahead to upcoming exercises and seen that I will be doing both line and close up so possibly I should be focusing more on drawing the complete object for this first exercise.

Couldn’t resist one more go at the weave though. This one is just watercolour and I’ve used lots more water to blur the edges and give it a softer appearance. It does look softer but still very flat. I think it lacks the deep shadow in the groove to give it texture and dimension. Not going to keep going with this now as I have to get on but will revisit this problem in the upcoming close detail exercise.

Just accidentally pressed on my keyboard and zoomed right in to the above photo


The granular appearance is enhanced by the texture of the paper and the pixels at this level of zoom. Printed it off to include, just because I can 🙂


Final whole kimono drawing that isn’t all line. This time I have joined four A3 papers to make a bigger one by using masking tape on the back. That way I figure it can be folded and unfolded for viewing. The masking tape could come off and it could be presented as a series of four either assembled as taped, or in fact in a line might look interesting.

I’ve used a wide paint scraper to apply black ink. Here I was trying to emulate the way a kimono hangs because it is constructed from smaller loom width pieces of fabric. The dense black does have shade and curves within it. I drew the whole thing from the neck down so it would be falling as if hung. Not all the drip lines were intended (it was windy outside) but once I had the ones off the sleeve, I decided to purposefully include some vertical ones, as hanging thread or simply just to indicate the hanging nature of the kimono.



Had one more go at drawing the weave of the kimono in watercolour and trying to soften the edges more in keeping with fabric. Not an very arresting image but the blurred edges and tonal variation are more in keeping with the texture and tone of the fabric.



Need to move on as wallowing here

Boro futon cover:

Here I’ve used line contrasting with solid areas to illustrate the repaired and holey nature of this piece. I’m quite happy with this little drawing in its simplicity. I wonder if I’m really meant to be drawing more realistic drawings of each piece but I am pretty short on patience to do that. Instead I’m trying to focus on qualities of the textile and how I can represent these. This work is too graphic to show the patchy and worn nature of the piece bit hopefully some of that is conveyed in the irregular lines.



In the next work I’ve focused on the stained nature of the textile. I felt it needed a framework to place the stains but I thin that the high contrast with line and the very textural and opaque nature of these stains is not right. I was looking for something that more melded with the paper by seeping in and this did not do that. The paper is a piece of found paper and I have torn the edges reflected the raw edges of my textile.


Trying again with stains. This little series was just one stain that was a tester in my little notebook. It soaked through to create these three. I have used water colour, gouache and liquid pencil, plus a bit of ramie fibre that was literally floating around as I am packing for our central Australian working trip. This photo looks great but I have cheated by photographing it on my lightbox while it was still a bit wet. I’m still getting a stoney look rather than fibre though.


Next I have used two different papers to see if I could get better seepage. I have painted watercolour into water on the watercolour paper and then, in keeping with the Japanese origins of my textiles, I have overlaid this drawing with a piece of Japanese rice paper, whilst it is still wet. To my eyes the resultant image on the rice paper most reflects the seepage of stains and the differential movement of the pigments creating linear edges.


Finally I tried this one earlier which took ages to dry. That’s ok I think because stains are developed over time in life as in art :). I used kids painting paper and it must have a certain resistance to water because it seeped very slowly. I was happy with the yellow edges that developed but otherwise find this one hard looking and again not reflecting the absorbent nature of fabric well.



Sake draining bag:

Here I have used a watercolour stick to try and demonstrate the thick rubbery gentle folds of the draining bag. I had hoped that when I wet the watercolour it would flow a bit with soft but darker tonal variation.  Unfortunately this didn’t happen. It’s too faint and light with not enough form.



Here I have used oil stick to give an overall texture and flexible but dimensional pattern, as the persimmon treated bag.  I have overlaid the oil stick with watercolour paint which flows into the areas not touched by oil stick to added softer tone to the folds of the fabric.  It’s ok but fairly uninteresting.



Finally I have chosen to represent the function in mark. As this is a bag that strains fluid I have masked out the bag shaped area and dropped watercolour from a height as the sake drips from the bag. I’m happy with this sort of mark but it is conceptual and not recognisable as a bag.